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Fashion made possible by global trade

Fashion made possible by global trade

Fashion made possible by global trade

From USA-ITA OFF THE CUFF for May 17, 2013

On May 14th, USA-ITA and Cotton Incorporated hosted a seminar in New York City to provide an update on the cotton market and some of Cotton Incorporated’s new initiatives in education and sustainability. 

Teresa Zugay, Cotton Incorporated’s Senior Executive Account Manager for Global Supply Chain Marketing, kicked off the session with an overview of Cotton University, a free online resource for industry professionals, faculty, and students to learn more about working with cotton. In summary, the program allows you to learn, connect, and grow—and in particular, become an expert on the topics of most interest to you and your company. In addition to a wide variety of online, self-paced courses, Cotton University also offers a library of resources, forums to connect with other experts and students, and information on Cotton Incorporated’s in-person workshops. We encourage you to visit www.cottonuniversity.org to sign up—or send it along to the relevant sourcing people on your team.

Mark Messura, Cotton Incorporated’s Senior Vice President of Global Supply Chain Marketing, then provided an overview of the cotton market today. There are two things to know. First, there is stability in pricing right now. Second, there is uncertainty, especially about what’s going on in China with cotton prices.

In sharp contrast to the cotton market about a year and a half to two years ago, prices are relatively stable, with the 13-month average price hovering around 86.6 cents/pound, and prices are competitive relative to polyester.

Nonetheless, we have to keep an eye on China—as you’ll see in slide 21, the price of cotton in China is significantly higher than the price of cotton on other indices. With 70 percent of cotton consumed by China, India, the United States, and Pakistan, whatever happens in these countries can move the market significantly. In China, consumption is down 18.2 percent, which coincides with a decline in China’s competitive advantage due to labor costs and other factors. Yet, China has a huge supply of cotton reserves, which, as you can see in slide 34, have increased while mill use has decreased. The big question is how China will deal with these reserves. On January 14th, the Chinese government began a strategic reserves auction, with purchases limited to Chinese textile mills with no reselling allowed. 

It’s not just China that has excess cotton. In fact, the 2013/2014 harvest will lead to the biggest inventory of cotton on the planet, ever. We could almost take a year off from growing cotton—though we won’t, because the cotton industry accounts for just too many jobs all over the world.

In conclusion, we’re seeing three trends in the cotton market:

  1. There is a supply-side risk, given China’s strategic cotton reserves. The reserves are increasing, yet domestic prices remain high.
  2. Planting is lower this year, with lower production forecasts.
  3. The variance in world production is dwarfed by China’s inventory.

What to do with all these cotton reserves? Consumers still love denim, and cotton products generally, but we’ve seen a huge shift in consumers’ attitudes about buying clothing. In 2008, 46% of consumers said they would rather spend their money on things other than clothes. In 2012, the number jumped to 54 percent. This number even increased among the key shopping demographic, women ages 18-34, which could be a problem.

Another issue to think about is sustainability, and how you balance people, the planet, and profit. Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental issues, especially among that aforementioned shopping demographic. Americans always lagged behind Europeans when it comes to environmental activism, but now they’re catching up, and brands should take note.

Nonetheless, while people care more about environmentally friendly clothing, it’s still not a main driver for purchasing decisions. Those drivers remain fit, comfort, quality, style, and price. In short, while you should pay attention to sustainability, you still need to pay attention to the other factors, particularly price.

People have very different attitudes about what they will eat than what they will wear or put in their home. This is especially clear when we look at “organic”—organic clothing is on the decline because people are not willing to pay two times the price for “organic” clothing, even though they are willing to pay for organic food. It’s a better marketing strategy for brands to find other ways to call out their environmental benefits—such as natural fibers, or a decrease in water or electrical use, or packaging improvements—rather than simply sell “organic” clothing.

This is where Cotton Incorporated can help you. After all, cotton is a “natural” fiber and can generally be marketed as such, which consumers like. There are many ways you can get credit for “sustainability” as there are many resources for responsible cotton, especially in the United States. For more information on this, visit  http://www.cottoninc.com/sustainability/.

For more information on the fabric of our lives today, download the presentation or visit www.cottoninc.com

About

The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) is dedicated to fashion made possible by global trade.

USFIA represents brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers based in the United States and doing business globally. Founded in 1989, USFIA works to eliminate tariff and non-tariff barriers that impede the fashion industry’s ability to trade freely and create jobs in the United States.

Headquartered in Washington, DC, USFIA is the voice of the fashion industry in front of the U.S. government as well as international governments and stakeholders.  With constant, two-way communication, USFIA staff and counsel serve as the eyes and ears of our members in Washington and around the world, enabling them to stay ahead of the regulatory challenges of today and tomorrow. Through our publications, educational events, and networking opportunities, USFIA also connects with key stakeholders across the value chain including U.S. and international service providers, suppliers, and industry groups.

 

News

TRACKING TRUMP'S TARIFFS

USFIA has created a new web page to track tariff actions from the Trump Administration, featuring an interactive table with the latest information. Below are some high-level stats from this data.

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Increase in prices for apparel in the short run due to new tariffs

Higher tariffs on apparel translate into real increased expenses for American consumers.

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Total number of new and modified tariff actions this year

Tariff actions taken so far in 2025 impact every single country; including those with no trade to the U.S. and trusted trading partners.

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Estimated tariff increase on apparel imports

From research by Dr. Sheng Lu. If the value of US textile and apparel imports in 2025 remains unchanged from 2024, the reciprocal tariff would result in nearly $35 billion in total tariff duties on these products—an increase of $19.9 billion compared to the current tariff levels.

Events

Reports

2025 Sourcing Trends Mid-Year Update

USFIA's 2025 Sourcing Trends Mid-Year Update is out with data from the first six months of 2025. Members can log-in to the website to download it here

The top 4 sourcing trends in the mid-year report are:

  1. China remains the top supplier of textiles and apparel.
  2. Asian apparel suppliers continue to dominate sourcing.
  3. Average unit values rise for yarns and apparel.
  4. Despite high duty rates, FTAs and preference programs remain underutilized.

 

2025 Mid-Year Sourcing Report: WTO's top Apparel Exporters in 2024

The European Union and China are basically tied as the largest suppliers of the world’s clothing. While China’s share of world exports has fallen since the 2010s, it manufactures 29% of apparel. The European Union – including Italy and France – ranks slightly larger as a supplier of the world’s clothing. The EU remains a strong apparel manufacturer, from the high-end fashion houses in Milan to lower cost producers. And the tariff framework agreement that limits the U.S. reciprocal tariffs means that the EU now could gain a cost advantage.

2025 USFIA Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study

This is the 12th USFIA Benchmarking Survey and unsurprisingly, fashion industry executives are more concerned with tariffs than ever. The top business challenges facing U.S. fashion companies center on the Trump Administration’s escalating tariff policy and its wide-ranging impacts on companies’ sourcing and business operations.

100% of respondents rated “Protectionist U.S. trade policies and related policy uncertainty, including the impact of the Trump tariffs” as one of their top business challenges in 2025. In taking the #1 spot, this challenge rose from #5 in 2024 and #11 in 2023, showing the increasing concern over the last few years.

Over 70% of surveyed companies reported that the higher tariffs increased sourcing costs, squeezed profit margins, and led to higher consumer prices.
Tariffs have been the most significant factor driving sourcing cost increases for U.S. fashion companies in 2025. And amid higher tariffs and policy uncertainty, about 65 percent of respondents feel optimistic about the next five years in 2025, a decline from 75 percent one year ago.

Download the complete study here, and see the highlights below:

 2025 USFIA Benchmarking Study - Respondents expressed the most concern about protectionist U.S. trade policies and their ripple effects in 2025


Higher tariffs have triggered ripple effects across supply chains.

2025 USFIA Benchmarking Study - Figure 1-3 US fashion companies reported broad economic impacts of the escalating tariffs on their sourcing and business operations

2025 USFIA Benchmarking Study - Figure 1-4 U.S. fashion companies explored various methods to mitigate the tariff impacts

 


U.S. fashion companies are actively exploring new sourcing opportunities, with a particular focus on emerging suppliers in Asia

2025 USFIA Benchmarking Study - Figure 2-20  U.S. fashion companies plan to exand apparel sourcing from emerging sourcing destinations in Asia and the rest of the world through 2027


 

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