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Fashion made possible by global trade

Fashion made possible by global trade

Fashion made possible by global trade

From USA-ITA OFF THE CUFF for May 17, 2013

On May 14th, USA-ITA and Cotton Incorporated hosted a seminar in New York City to provide an update on the cotton market and some of Cotton Incorporated’s new initiatives in education and sustainability. 

Teresa Zugay, Cotton Incorporated’s Senior Executive Account Manager for Global Supply Chain Marketing, kicked off the session with an overview of Cotton University, a free online resource for industry professionals, faculty, and students to learn more about working with cotton. In summary, the program allows you to learn, connect, and grow—and in particular, become an expert on the topics of most interest to you and your company. In addition to a wide variety of online, self-paced courses, Cotton University also offers a library of resources, forums to connect with other experts and students, and information on Cotton Incorporated’s in-person workshops. We encourage you to visit www.cottonuniversity.org to sign up—or send it along to the relevant sourcing people on your team.

Mark Messura, Cotton Incorporated’s Senior Vice President of Global Supply Chain Marketing, then provided an overview of the cotton market today. There are two things to know. First, there is stability in pricing right now. Second, there is uncertainty, especially about what’s going on in China with cotton prices.

In sharp contrast to the cotton market about a year and a half to two years ago, prices are relatively stable, with the 13-month average price hovering around 86.6 cents/pound, and prices are competitive relative to polyester.

Nonetheless, we have to keep an eye on China—as you’ll see in slide 21, the price of cotton in China is significantly higher than the price of cotton on other indices. With 70 percent of cotton consumed by China, India, the United States, and Pakistan, whatever happens in these countries can move the market significantly. In China, consumption is down 18.2 percent, which coincides with a decline in China’s competitive advantage due to labor costs and other factors. Yet, China has a huge supply of cotton reserves, which, as you can see in slide 34, have increased while mill use has decreased. The big question is how China will deal with these reserves. On January 14th, the Chinese government began a strategic reserves auction, with purchases limited to Chinese textile mills with no reselling allowed. 

It’s not just China that has excess cotton. In fact, the 2013/2014 harvest will lead to the biggest inventory of cotton on the planet, ever. We could almost take a year off from growing cotton—though we won’t, because the cotton industry accounts for just too many jobs all over the world.

In conclusion, we’re seeing three trends in the cotton market:

  1. There is a supply-side risk, given China’s strategic cotton reserves. The reserves are increasing, yet domestic prices remain high.
  2. Planting is lower this year, with lower production forecasts.
  3. The variance in world production is dwarfed by China’s inventory.

What to do with all these cotton reserves? Consumers still love denim, and cotton products generally, but we’ve seen a huge shift in consumers’ attitudes about buying clothing. In 2008, 46% of consumers said they would rather spend their money on things other than clothes. In 2012, the number jumped to 54 percent. This number even increased among the key shopping demographic, women ages 18-34, which could be a problem.

Another issue to think about is sustainability, and how you balance people, the planet, and profit. Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental issues, especially among that aforementioned shopping demographic. Americans always lagged behind Europeans when it comes to environmental activism, but now they’re catching up, and brands should take note.

Nonetheless, while people care more about environmentally friendly clothing, it’s still not a main driver for purchasing decisions. Those drivers remain fit, comfort, quality, style, and price. In short, while you should pay attention to sustainability, you still need to pay attention to the other factors, particularly price.

People have very different attitudes about what they will eat than what they will wear or put in their home. This is especially clear when we look at “organic”—organic clothing is on the decline because people are not willing to pay two times the price for “organic” clothing, even though they are willing to pay for organic food. It’s a better marketing strategy for brands to find other ways to call out their environmental benefits—such as natural fibers, or a decrease in water or electrical use, or packaging improvements—rather than simply sell “organic” clothing.

This is where Cotton Incorporated can help you. After all, cotton is a “natural” fiber and can generally be marketed as such, which consumers like. There are many ways you can get credit for “sustainability” as there are many resources for responsible cotton, especially in the United States. For more information on this, visit  http://www.cottoninc.com/sustainability/.

For more information on the fabric of our lives today, download the presentation or visit www.cottoninc.com

About

The United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) is dedicated to fashion made possible by global trade.

USFIA represents brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers based in the United States and doing business globally. Founded in 1989, USFIA works to eliminate tariff and non-tariff barriers that impede the fashion industry’s ability to trade freely and create jobs in the United States.

Headquartered in Washington, DC, USFIA is the voice of the fashion industry in front of the U.S. government as well as international governments and stakeholders.  With constant, two-way communication, USFIA staff and counsel serve as the eyes and ears of our members in Washington and around the world, enabling them to stay ahead of the regulatory challenges of today and tomorrow. Through our publications, educational events, and networking opportunities, USFIA also connects with key stakeholders across the value chain including U.S. and international service providers, suppliers, and industry groups.

 

News

The State of Tariffs

President Trump has made sweeping changes to U.S. tariffs since he began his second term in January 2025. From the Liberation Day tariffs to the various Section 122 and 301 investigations and tariffs, U.S. trade has shifted more in the past year than almost anytime in history. USFIA is pleased to provide the following resources to those wanting to learn more about the state of tariffs in 2026.

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10
Current baseline tariff on all trading partners

Imposed under Section 122, these temporary tariffs are set to expire on July 24, 2026.

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60
Countries threatened with Section 301 forced labor tariffs

A new 10% or 12.5% tariff on 60 U.S. trading partners under USTR's Section 301 forced labor investigation.

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121.7
in potential and certified refunds accepted in CAPE

CBP has accepted over a hundred billion in potentials and certified refunds since opening CAPE as of July 10, 2026.

Events

Reports

2026 USFIA Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study

The 2026 USFIA Fashion Industry Benchmarking study is now available to the public! Key findings from the report include:

  • The top business challenges facing U.S. fashion companies continue to center on the Trump Administration’s tariff policies, though concerns over inflation and increasing costs have also risen since 2025. 
  • 92% of respondents rated “Protectionist U.S. trade policies and related policy uncertainty, including the impact of the Trump tariffs” as one of their top two business challenges in 2026.
  • Among business concerns, managing forced-labor risks emerged as a significantly higher priority, rising from tenth place in 2025 to sixth place in 2026 and illustrating the industry's commitment to eradicating forced labor from their supply chains.
  • The job market is a bright spot. About 87% of companies plan to increase hiring over the next five years, up from last year and tying the highest level since the pandemic. Demand is expected to be strongest for data scientists, trade compliance specialists, and environmental sustainability specialists
  • AI is becoming increasingly integrated into apparel sourcing and business operations. 56% utilize AI for "demand forecasting and inventory planning," while 50% use it for "sustainability tracking," "risk management" and “sourcing strategy and cost optimization.”

Download the 2026 study here.

If you're interested in sharing your company's perspective for our 2027 study, fill out the interest form.

 Benchmarking 2026 top business challenges


Higher tariffs continue to trigger ripple effects across supply chains.

Figure 1-3 U.S. fashion companies reported deepened economic impacts of tariff hikes and policy uncertainties on their sourcing and business operations

Figure 1-4 U.S. fashion companies explored various methods to mitigate the evolving impacts of tariff hikes and policy uncertainties

 


Trends to watch: 

AI use could become increasingly prevalent in apparel sourcing as companies seek new technologies to improve operational efficiency and navigate a more complex, uncertain sourcing environment.Figure 2-24 AI is increasingly integrated into apparel sourcing and business operations


 

2026 Sourcing Trends & Outlook

USFIA's 2026 Sourcing Trends & Outlook is out with data from the full year of 2025. Members can log-in to the website to download it here

This is the thirteenth USFIA Sourcing Trends & Outlook Report, our annual look at the sourcing landscape for the fashion industry. 2025 will be remembered as the year of the Trump tariffs. U.S. imports fell as brands and retailers had to navigate a new level of uncertainty for sourcing and for costs. The reciprocal tariffs affected all countries, except for USMCA-qualifying production from Canada and Mexico.

As we look ahead to 2026, there still is a lot of uncertainty. The reciprocal tariffs were struck down by the Supreme Court, but the Trump Administration still is committed to impose tariffs above the MFN rates. The global tariffs imposed under Section 122 expire on July 24th and Administration officials say they will use other trade laws such as Section 301 and Section 232 to authorize more tariffs.

Even with the tariff disruptions, some of the major sourcing trends remain the same as in recent years. Asian suppliers continue to dominate apparel sourcing. The top seven apparel suppliers are China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, and Pakistan, and they ship 78% of apparel imports.

The top 5 sourcing trends in the report are:

  1. Asian apparel suppliers continue to dominate sourcing.
  2. China maintains its role as the top apparel supplier by quantity, and Vietnam is the top supplier by value.
  3. Average unit values for textiles and apparel imports had only modest increases.
  4. Some of the fastest growth in 2025 comes from major apparel suppliers.
  5. Despite tariff disruptions, FTAs and preference programs remain underutilized. CAFTA remains the major duty-free supplier.

 

While U.S. apparel imports decreased from many suppliers, there still are some clear winners from the tariff disruptions. Five of the top ten suppliers had double digit increases. Some of the fastest-growing suppliers are Asian-based apparel industries that took market share from China.

sourcing2026 fastest growing apparel suppliers

 

sourcing2026 applied tariff rates

Chart courtesy of Dr. Sheng Lu, Professor in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, University of Delaware.

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